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Starting Seeds
Even after 20 years of germinating thousands of seeds every spring, I still enjoy the feeling of seeing life spring forth. I confess to checking each pot like an anxious father and to feeling like spring is really coming when I see each pot sending up those first few tentative green shoots. Starting seeds and growing the plants into mature garden plants is full-spectrum gardening
Once Germinated
Once the seeds have germinated, there are a few basic things gardeners can do to ensure a good plant for the spring garden. The first is to ensure adequate light for the plant. Without an unobstructed, south-facing window, there is not enough sunlight to prevent seedling stretch without the use of supplementary lighting. This supplementary lighting will keep the seedling short and bushy.
Light
Light can be provided by either using a special plant "grow-light" type of bulb or both of a fluorescent hot bulb and a fluorescent cool bulb in the same fixture. (Obviously you'll need a two bulb fixture to accomplish this.) If using a grow-light bulb, read the instructions for placing the bulb the appropriate distance above the seed starting crop.
If you've never used bulbs before, you'll be surprised how close to the plant the bulb needs to be to accomplish anything. If you're using fluorescents, they should be within twelve inches of the top of the plant. As the seedling grows, this distance should be maintained so you'll require adjustable shelving. .
Feeding & Starting Seeds
If you want success starting seeds, you have to feed the developing seedlings. Pale, light green, stretched out growth is a symptom of both inadequate lighting and feeding. If a liquid plant food is used at 1/4 strength on seedlings, they will respond with much darker leaves. For every two weeks the seedling is alive, another 1/4 strength can be added to the mixture. For example, for the first month, feed at 1/4 strength, for weeks 4 to 6, feed at 1/2 strength; the developing seedling will appreciate the feeding and will grow much quicker.
Do not increase the strength of the feed to speed up the growth rate of the seedling. Increasing the strength of feeding to young seedlings usually results in poor seedlings. Imagine how you feel when you eat too much, force feeding plants is the same except that they simply die instead of watching football games after a big meal.
Four Leaves
Once your starting seeds have 4 leaves, they can be transplanted. For my special plants in the spring, I transplant them directly into either a 4 inch pot or a 6 inch pot. I give them all the room they need to grow and as much soil volume as I can spare in the greenhouse.
Soil
Your seed starting efforts can do the same by using a good artificial potting soil and as big a pot as you have room for (don't forget to keep them well lit) to ensure you have a good strong healthy plant.
People always say to me, "I germinated 75 seeds but I only have room for 20 plants in my garden, what do I do with the extra seedlings?"
Extra Seedlings
If I have my own seeds grown, if I've enjoyed growing them, if the seeds only cost a buck or two and the cost of my finished plants are quite a bit cheaper than the local garden centre, why do I need to fret about discarding a few extra?
If you are still feeling badly, you might check with your local day care or kindergarten class - often these folks can use seedlings so the kids can try gardening. As a note, don't give kids tricky plants because they can kill seedlings in ways I never imagined until I started hearing the stories from the teachers. Give them the cast-iron survivors like beans or marigolds.
Now we have our well fed seedlings in a high light spot, the temperature is in the low 60's and they are getting ready for the garden.
Pruning
Having said all that, there is always a plant or two that decides to stretch out and pull a jack and the beanstalk growth habit. When that happens in our greenhouses, we simply prune the plant. If the plant is stretching out we simply cut the top inch or two off the leading growth shoot. This forces side growth and creates a very bushy plant that performs very well in the garden. Don't be afraid to take the pruning shears to your annual flower plants. If the veggie transplants get a bit on the tall side, don't prune them, simply plant them much deeper in the garden soil so only the top 6-8 inches of plant is visible. The rest of the stalk will develop roots on most common vegetable crops.
When to Plant
How do I figure out when to plant my seeds? Well, I confess I read the back of the seed packages when I have a new variety. Most of the good seed houses will give you a planting date range in the instructions
Otherwise, try this rough schedule. Perennials get planted in January. Most flowers get planted in late February and starting seeds of your vegetables is done in mid-March except for tender vines like pumpkin that are done in mid-April. There is some variability in flowers but don't plant your vegetables before the middle of March or you'll have giant stretched out transplants for sure. For the rest of the seed starting scheduling, I keep records from every year I garden and adjust the seeding dates according to the needs of the plants and my particular system. Its not always convenient, but I thank myself every spring for the extra information I've added the previous years.
Try starting seeds this year. If you've never done it before, you can't go wrong with Marigolds, Zinnia, and Annual Poppies. Tomatoes, and cole crops (cabbages etc.) are the easiest of the vegetables. This season, try a bit of real gardening; starting seeds is your doorway to real gardening.
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